Press your spent grain

Something often overlooked in all grain brewing, but will greatly boost your mash efficiency. A lot if methods and devices have been created.

The commercial HEBS system gets most of it's effeciency from the press that leaves spent grain almost dry.

1. BIAB - hang mash bag over kettle and use high temp silicone gloves to squeeze out what you can.

2. Method I've used a lot. A gravity hydro press. Basically once you have exposed grain on the sparge, put a garbage bag in the mash tun and fill with water to press the grain.

3. Many contraptions have been made to do this in homebrew. Worth a Google.

If your grain is almost dry and not sticky, you're doing your mash and press right.

Whirlpool

Leave the hot and cold break behind. Use your whirlfloc and Irish moss properly. If you use them in boil and put all the hop trub in your fermentor you're just wasting space and limiting your final volume. Calculate your postboil volume to account for trub loss.

Replaced mash tun washer hose with stainless false bottom

I took the stainless water hose out of my 10 gallon Rubbermaid mash tun and upgraded with a stainless steel false bottom. With the washer hose, there was channeling when fly sparging, but now it works great, and it increased my efficiency greatly. I also noticed that the vorlauf goes much faster with minimal loss in temperature over the washer hose. This might not have much of an effect on the end product, but saved me a lot of time an money due to a better method and resulting increase in efficiency.

Oxygenating the Wort and use of Yeast (Micro)Nutrients

This made a noticeable difference to my beers, especially those over 1.070.

Full Wort Boils

Boiling your full volume of wort — as opposed to boiling a concentrated portion of your wort and then adding water to the fermenter to reach your full volume — will significantly increase your hop utilization rates. Your hops simply cannot perform to their full potential in the high sugar concentration of a partial boil. Your IBUs will much better match the recipe's predictions if you perform a full-volume boil.

Full wort boils also helps prevent darkening of wort color. Full wort boils help keep your blonde ales from being golden ales and your pales from being ambers. Concentrated boils tend to promote more Maillard reactions within the wort, thus darkening the final beer slightly.

Repitition, Repitition, Repitition

The biggest leap in quality and consistency for myself was setting up an area where the brewing process becomes routine. This has many benifits, the biggest of which is an increase on success rate for a clean, uninfected home brew.

Think of it as almost a production line. I'm lucky enough to have a room i can dedicate exclusivly to brewing.

• Starting off with a sanitization area where all my equipment can be cleaned and preped for use. This surface is the height of my "Strike zone" (the area at which tasks are carried out with the least amount of strain on the body). The advantage here is a relativly effortless cleaning process that cuts down cleaning time, but most of all makes it easier to fight the urge to cut corners which could lead to ruining my brew.
• Next to this is a shelf where my tray of sanitized equipment, wort, yeast and any other ingredients can lay as I start the primary. which is already at the level (Strike Zone) required for racking into the carboy later.
• Underneith this station hides said carboy which was cleaned with the other equipment at the start of fermentation and sealed. Now when the primary is finished I sanitize, rinse and rack. When in the carboy, the primary and all used equipment have been cleaned and stored underneith, where the carboy once sat.
• Finally we have our cabinet of clean bottles waiting to be filled. They're pre-cleaned and ready for sanitation. Grolsch bottles of course, so no caps or machine required for capping.

Perhaps this sounds extensive? The scale of this 'massive' production line is a whopping 8" at most. It may sound silly to have such a setup but...

• im never out of arms reach from anything I need for each process. So there is no searching for that elusive bottle of Diversol or running off because I forgot something.
• Eliminates transporting my freshly sanitized equipment from my bathroom/kitchen to my brew station and collecting any nasties along the way.
• All of the work becomes much easier, so starting a batch requires about as much thought as cracking a bottle from the last brew.
• Last but not least: Ive increased my seccess rate and consistency

Know your water report & filter/treat your water to style

There's a good reason Ireland is known for their stouts and the Czech Republic is known for their Pils. They brew beers best suited for their water based on the minerals in them. At the very least, owe it to your beer to filter it through a charcoal filter, or add campden tablets to clear up chlorine if your water is treated. The largest ingredient in your beer is water. Treating it to get rid of chlorine or whatever well-water bugs exist and treating it to get the right pH and alkalinity is what separates good beers from great beers. Get a copy of your water report, know how to read it, and if you want to brew to style, make adjustments using various salts.

If you're doing an all-grain mash, use 5.2 pH stabilizer. Some brewers contest that 5.2 will add a salty flavor to the beer, while other proponents of 5.2 defend that it does not. The alternative is to add comparable salts to bring the pH down. Believe it or not, you'll get more tannins out of your grains from a higher than normal pH than what you'll typically get out of boiling your grains or squeezing the grain bag during a BIAB or partial-mash. Classic decoction mashing would involve brewers separating out a portion of the mash into a separate kettle, bring it to a boil, then add it back in to the main mash tun to bring the mash temperature up to the next decoction.

For all-grain brewing, knowing your water and filtering/treating it appropriately is an absolute must in order to brew excellent beers.

Using a glass carboy for fermentation instead of plastic pail

Especially necessary for long-term secondary fermentations/maturing of beer in order to prevent oxidation since glass is not permeable by oxygen, whereas plastic is.

Write down everything you do. Don't kid yourself into thinking "I don't have to write this down, I'll remember", because you won't remember. The better you are about this, the easier it will be to do things repeatably. What temperature did you mash at? (not what temperature did the recipe say to mash at). What was the {pre,post} boil gravity, What was the {pre,post} boil volume. When did the hops go in. How long did chilling the wort take. What was the gravity after X days of fermentation...

Using a Wort Chiller

This has a few advantages:

• Better cold break
• Less chance for unwanted organisms to get a foothold
• Minimizes the time wort is in the DMS-precursor-producing temperature range
• Better retention of Hop aromatics and flavor

Temp Control for fermentation

Hitting the happy-yeast zone prevents high-temperature off-flavors like phenolics and low-temperature under attenuation.

There is a separate community wiki post on this subject.

Yeast Managment

Yeast produce different flavors during the phases in their lifecycle. Pitching the right quantity of healthy yeast is in the top two most important things you can do to control fermentation

• Ester production occurs most strongly during the growth phase, when you first pitch.
• Yeast uses oxygen to bud (grow). Insufficient aeration leads to incomplete fermentation.

Reading Designing Great Beers

By Ray Daniels. It's packed full of principles and practicalities.

Buy it on Amazon

Reading How to Brew

By John Palmer. It's available to read online for free, or you can buy a hard copy. How to Brew is an amazing book for beginners to read and experts to reference. No brewer should go without reading it.

Good Vorlauf

Once you've gone all-grain improving your recirculation will leave proteins in the mash. This increases beer clarity.

Patience

For me, this mostly applies to fermentation. Allow it to complete then wait a few more days. After packaging chill undisturbed for at least two weeks so suspended particles fall to the bottom. Like a good soup or pasta sauce, give the flavors a chance to mingle and mellow.

Going All-Grain

Sourcing the freshest ingredients (especially extracts)