6 Months ago I attempted a KBS Clone. Beer uses chocolate, coffee, bourbon soaked oak. I got 1.090 OG and got stuck at 1.032, but it tastes really good (Can chocolate make it appear higher?) It's been 6 months and I would like to bottle it. What technique should I use if I want to bottle condition? I'm scared that if I repitch an high attenuative yeast, I might restart fermentation and make bottles bombs.. Is that a possibility? Thanks
How can I increase the viscosity of a Russian imperial stout? I've heard of making boils longer Use oats, What do you recommend? Thank you so much! Regards, Erik Dobrychtop. Cya o/
it's my first question here. I've downloaded Brewdog recipe book, and they use yeasts like Wyeast 1056 - American Ale, Wyeast 1272 - American Ale II and WLP099 Super High Gravity Ale for Imperial Stouts. Recipes: #6, #7, #21, #29, #70. In my country I can't buy these yeasts, but I can buy Fermentis Safale and Mangrove Jacks. I found out that Safale US-05 is a replacement for Wyeast 1056 - American Ale. Is it correct? What is the replacement …
I just ordered the How To Disappear Completely Imperial Stout kit from Boomchugalug on Amazon. I am excited so start this one up. It takes a long time but the idea of making my own imperial stout is very exciting to me. This will only be my third brew, my others were much quicker. I have only done a Double IPA and a Coffee Porter, both were LME kits like this one. So I have read that many people try …
I've seen the adjective "Imperial" tacked on at the beginning of a number of beer styles recently: Imperial Stout, Imperial Brown Ale, Imperial Red Ale, etc. What does it mean exactly, is it just higher alcohol content or something like that?
I'm working on brewing an Imperial Stout and using a liquid yeast (WLP-007). Beer Smith is telling me that I need about 300bn yeast cells. However, it says I might get 180bn. I'm usually not a stickler for details but this is a big enough difference that it worries me. I bought 2 packs of the liquid yeast and made a starter (rougly 0.75L). Beer Smith says I should roughly have a 1.6L starter (I only have room for 1 …
I am obsessed with the thick body, sweet style stouts (Milk Stouts, Russian Imperial Stouts Bourbon Barrel Stouts, etc.), think Dragon's Milk, Old Rasputin, Lakewood's Temptress. While I have attempted to brew my own a handful of times, they always come out with thin and light bodied, which I am NOT a fan of. I thought Maltodextrin would be the golden ticket and tried adding it with priming sugar during racking, but the brew is still too thin for my …
I am about to brew an imperial stout, and I was wondering, about bitterness level in it. I want to create a smooth sweetish imperial stout (maybe somewhat on the same level with a milk stout), but strong in the same time. Should I use less bitter hops to reduce IBU to 50? Should I use more specialty grains (like honey malt)? Or should I age it with oak little bit longer to add vanilla taste? Should I use a …
I'm looking at this imperial stout recipe, and planning on adding cherries (perhaps bourbon-soaked) to the secondary. I'm pretty new to extract brewing, and have only done one batch previously (only ever done kits customised with extra hops and speciality grains before). I've therefore got a few questions: How much in the way of cherries will I have to use? (this will probably dictate as to whether or not I soak them in bourbon first!) Do I need to pitch …
I've just worked up this (extract, specialty grains) recipe from glancing at clone recipes for old Rasputin imperial stout and black butte porter--they both have a smooth, chocolaty thing I'm going for as a base. But my goal is to bring the dark fruity flavors of a dubbel to the stout. My question is about the grain bill. Does this seem balanced? I abhor too much coffee, bitter roast flavor in a stout, and I don't think it would go …
I did not fly sparge properly, undershooting the preboil gravity by quite a bit, and ended up using more sparge water to extact sugars. I then reduced away most of the additional water, and ended up with an OG of about '87 (with a somewhat bigger volume). The target was 1.1. I'm thinking about adding sugar, honey or similar to the primary fermentation (going on as we speak) to get it up to or closer to this level. My question …
I'm still pretty new to home brewing, so I'm sure I made about a hundred mistakes with this beer. I brewed a 1.079 OG imperial porter, and used Safale 05 (only one pack, unfortunately). First of all, I think I under-pitched the yeast, and then I only kept it in primary for seven days. I tasted it during racking, and there were definitely some pretty distinct fruity flavors there that I did not expect or want. The gravity read 1.032, …
I've got an Imperial IPA that I'm worried has something wrong. OG 1.080, 5gal batch, 6.5gal fermentation bucket, Used a healthy starter, Room temp 70f Primary kicked up within five hours or so and was pretty steady bubbling every second for two days. Then on the third day it started coming out through the air lock. I rigged up a ghetto blow off tube I found here. On the fourth day it's still bubbling once a second... I haven't taken …
I am doing one for a competition -I hopped it like a double or Imperial IPA in the boil, but I am hopping it with three dry hop additions added in separate increments.