Yeast: Mangrove Jack's M44 - US West Coast Yesterday I brewed an IPA recipe but had a couple of issues when it came to pitching the yeast. The first was that I could not get the wort temperature below 23.9ºC (75F). The second was that I cooled the re-hydrated yeast too far, to 19.1ºC (66F), as I expected to get the wort down to 21ºC-ish (70F). When I could not get the wort temperature any lower, after using the chiller …
I am about to brew my first test batch of a Flanders Red/Brown. I am thinking Rodenbach, but with local ingredients. So, for me Maris replaces lager malt, Admiral and Progress replace nobel hops. Basically harking back to Porters of London from the late C18, early C19. Malt 8 Kg Maris Otter 1.5 Kg flaked corn 0.2 Crystal 150L 0.2 Chocolate Malt Hops Admiral 20g @ 60 min Progress 30g @ 60 min Yeast/Bacteria Wyeast - Roeselare Ale Blend I …
Working with a 1.060 original gravity wort, mashed at 152F, and using the WLP565 Dupont yeast (that is known to stall), when should the brewer investigate if adding a secondary strain of yeast will be required? Is there a rule of thumb or accepted practice that suggests if X% of expected attenuation is not complete by Y days, then attenuation will very likely require a very long time? Of course there are various options for the brewer, such as raising …
I am considering two techniques for lowering my specific gravity but am unsure if my methods will work. I am currently fermenting a bock style. It's not a true bock because I don't have the ability to lager, so I used an ale yeast, specifically, Safbrew T-58, per a friend's recommendation. My original gravity was 1.071. After taking 5 measurements over the course of a week, the gravity has stopped at 1.025. I was hoping for it to be a …
I washed some yeast ( US 05 ) from my last brew; and I now have 3 jars of yeast which separated out nicely overnight. They're around 2/3 yeast, 1/3 liquid at the moment, with no trub as far as I can see. I want to use one of these next week and I'd like to know how much to use, so I went on to Mr Malty's calculator ( re-pitching from slurry tab ). There's a slider for "yeast …
Brewing a porter, pitched my yeast and started with a 1.056. My air conditioner broke for 1 day and the beer got to about 80 degrees after about 1 1/2 weeks of fermentation. Beer has been sitting at 1.036 for two weeks now. Can I repitch? Or is it needing to be dumped? And if I can repitch, does it need to be transferred to a new bucket first?
I brewed a Dogfish Punkn clone that was rather heavy on the sediment. I pitched a pretty healthy yeast starter that was working for 30 hours before being pitched probably around 80 degrees, perhaps slightly more than the room temp. The yeast didn't take off, airlock activity was brief and underwhelming. It began at the 48 hour mark and lasted until the 60 hour mark. The krausen rimming the carboy is short, perhaps less than an inch. Should I pitch …
I brewed a batch of bitter 5 weeks ago, simple recipe with 90 % pale malt and 10 % crystal. IBU is aout 30. I have brewed this beer before, and it was great. Everything went perfect, up until I pitched yeast. It is a long story: re-pitched yeast harvested from primary from earlier batch (WLP002), but I pitched way too little. The fermentation did not start within 48 hours, so I repitched fresh yeast. That is to say, the …
I upgraded my equipment and estimated my new efficiency a bit too low, so the imperial IPA that I brewed on 11/30 ended up having an O.G. of 1.10 (supposed to be 1.09). I made a two step starter with White Labs California Ale (WLP001). The first step was 2L, and the second was a bit smaller at 1.2L since the first step went overboard a bit out of the erlenmeyer flask. I oxygenated with pure O2 for a minute …
Brewed an ESB yesterday, pitching Wyeast 1028 @ 70 degrees F. Stirred and shook carboy for oxygen, then airlocked and moved moved to the basement. This morning, carboy is @ 71 degrees F with NO activity in the carboy or airlock. OG yesterday was 1.060 and it's the same this morning. I was slightly concerned about the yeast before I pitched it. I had popped the activator and left the pouch at room temperature for 5 hours, but the pouch …
On Saturday I brewed my 89th batch, an all-grain Irish Red Ale, SG 1.049. Pitched Wyeast 1084 from an "Activator" smack pack dated May 2012 that I'd struck around eight hours earlier, then aerated the wort using a paddle-mixer drill attachment for two minutes. None of these are new procedures to me, although I typically smack the pack the night before brewing instead of that morning (or make a starter on a stir-plate). It's been around 40 hours and there's …
A few batches ago, I had a "learning experience". I now have some pretty good ideas of where I went wrong (mainly, not having any idea how to design a recipe), but I'm wondering what I can do with a case of not-very-tasty (but not completely ruined) beer. This mess started with: Using too much molasses (12oz jar of molasses, with 9lbs DME) Pitching a single smack-pack into a wort with OG of 1.090+ Using about half of the amount …
I'm brewing two beers back to back so I can reuse some White Labs California Ale (WLP001). One is a basic APA 1.058 OG and the Other is a Scottish Export/80 1.051 OG. Is there any reason I should brew one before the other as far as the yeast health goes? Will the color of the scottish ale yeast cake affect the pale ale? Should I wash the yeast or just repitch onto the previous batch's yeast cake?
It is often said that, when re-pitching yeast, you should generally go from low- to high-gravity, and dark to light beers. When I repitch, I use trub directly. I understand why using a yeast from a high-gravity fermentation is ill-advised, since the yeast has been stressed, but why go light to dark? Is this just a matter of color? If so, how much darkening would you expect to get when brewing, say, an APA after a stout?