I had done some cursory digging online and found that at my elevation the boil evaporation loss was about 14% per hour. So to test this out I boiled 3785mL (1 gallon) of water for an hour in my brew kettle. If 14% is true, then I expected to be left with about 3221mL left (about 86%) at the end of the hour. An hour later, I was left with 1300ml!!! So more like an evaporation rate of 66% when …

Just read this Beer and Brewing article on iso-alpha acids in hops and am trying to understand something. The 3rd paragraph in that article states: "Iso-alpha acids are formed typically during wort boiling, when hops are added, and alpha acids are extracted from the hops’ lupulin glands (or from the hop resin in hop extracts). Isomerization is the result of the effect of heat on the alpha acids. The process is both time and temperature dependent. The longer the alpha …

I'm fairly new to brewing and for the first half-dozen batches I have just used packets of Burtonizing Water Salts to treat my water picked up at my local homebrew supply store. So far, per that store's owner, I've added 9 grams of the salts to my boil when there's 15-minutes left. Beers have turned out pretty decent. I now want to level up my water treatment game a bit. I'd like to start targeting specific water profiles based on …

I am new to homebrewing, I made only 2 BIAB batches. I am using a 25l keg and a burner. My pre mash batch is 21-23l since I don't want the wort to overflow when boiling. In a biab method since there is no recirculation and sparging, I think we loose 3-5l until the fermentation bucket. Due to that loss and that I can't chill the wort to the desired temp (I brew for 2 hours and try to chill …

In this answer it is mentioned that boiling with the lid on or off may make a difference in final gravity. Which do you recommend and why?

I'm browsing through Brewers Friend recipes, specifically looking at NEIPAs. With a few exceptions they are mostly 60min(+) boils even though they don't have bittering additions at the start of the boil (as-per the low-bitterness of the style). The first hop addition tends to be at the whirlpool, or towards the end of the boil (e.g. 60min boil with first hops @ 10min). Why would you boil a beer like this for that long? Is it just to raise the …

What is the ideal boil pH? You hear a lot about mash pH, but if you've maximized your mash efficiency and conversion what is the best pH for the kettle? Pre boil? Post boil?

During the boil a lot of water is evaporated off. I have a 30L boiler and generally end up with around 22L in the fermentation vessel. After racking off from the fermentation and leaving the trub behind I can end up with as little as 19L worth of beer. To increase the amount of beer at the end or to intentionally reduce the ABV I occasionally add water (same sterile water used for mashing) to the fermentation vessel just before …

I made beer from malt extract a couple of times with satisfying results. I had been reading a lot about it upfront and practiced what I had learned. This meant ignoring the instructions that came with my malt extract kits though. I was convinced I needed to cook that stuff to get rid of substances that do not taste well. So I did each time. I also made sure to cool quickly using a self-made cooler. Now what puzzles me …

Although I thoroughly clean my nylon hop bags after each boil they have become non-porous. I’ve tried boiling with no improvement to porosity. Any suggestions for getting them porous again?

I’ve made a few recipes with different ratios of Water to Grain for mashing in partial mash recipes. Some seem to have too little water such that the grain bag is hardly submerged. Others are higher. What is the optimal ratio for partial mash recipes specifically and do the different ratios accomplishing anything?

Long story short, somehow after a chilling my beer after the boil, I've ended up with additional water in the wort (must have a leak in the chiller!). Took me a while to notice, couldn't understand why my OG was 20points off! As a result I need to boil the wort for another hour to get down to my intended volume. What effect will this have on the beer? I guess I'll lose all of those hop aromas from late …

The idea is pretty simple: bittering due to alpha acid isomerization is a function of boil time and quantity of bittering hops. Hence, it's quoted that from an alpha acid standpoint, a 15 minute boil with twice the quantity of bittering hops is fairly equivalent to a 60-minute hop addition. I'm a bit lazy, and I'd rather not steam up the house any more than I need to, so a shorter boil time definitely has an appeal. Plus, it seems …

I'm planning to brew a New England IPA where I only use knocked hops and dry hopping. Is there any point in boiling for an hour? What is the minimum time I should boil for? I'm thinking maybe 15 minutes.

I'm relatively new to homebrewing. I've just done my 5th batch a few days ago. I came across the term partial boil when watching a homebrew video on kettles. I'm not quite sure if what I do is considered a partial boil, here's my all grain BIAB process. I use a 20 litre Bring 8 litres to 74 degrees C. Add the bag of malt and the water lowers to 68 degrees C Sparge and reach the boil volume in …

I'm thinking about moving from extract with grains brewing to all grain brewing, instead of buying a bigger pot I'm thinking about using the same one I used for extract and downsize my butch (which actually solves a bunch of other problems for me). What size of batches can I produce with a 12L pot (actually an electric urn) doing BIAB in it?

This question's answer led me to http://www.milkthefunk.com which is a great source of information. Since there's a few methods for making sour beer, I should mention I've been doing what some call a kettle sour (or fast sour) where I do a mash, then a full boil, then sour the beer using l plantarum in a sealed keg purged with CO2, then do another full boil (topping up with water) then ferment as a standard ale, then keg for carbonation. …

I did my last batch of extract lately and aiming to make all grain from now on. Since my biggest stainless cauldron has 12 or 13 liters capacity, I realised that my 5 gallon carboy wasn't fit for my situation, so I bought a 3 gallon on Kijiji. You may already see my problem here ;) The preboil volume must be higher than that. I red somewhere that it would be something like 4 gallons for a 3 gallons batch …

I finished Papazian's book The Complete Joy of Homebrewing last weekend and learned that a vigorous boil is necessary to isomerize the alpha and beta acids in hops which makes these bittering acids soluble in water-- both the boiling temperature and the physical action of the boil are mechanism by which the hop acids under go isomerisation. I've also learned on this stackexchange that Dimethylsulphide is boiled off during the boiling period. Leaving a lid on the pot or a …

Long story short. Trying to understand my new set up, I made a mistake, I didn't check the post boil volume and also didn't have good rolling boil. The wort was boiling, but not so much. Simple grain bill: 5.2 kg 2 row (95%), 20g Munich (5%) first wort hops and 80g more at flameout. Mashed for 80 minutes at 65°C/149°F, mashed out for 10 minutes at 167°F. Boiled for 60 minutes stirring all the time. Pre-boil gravity was 1.050, …