Just made my second batch using an Anvil Foundry all-in-one brewing system. I used an immersion chiller to bring the wort down, but could only get it down to 82F (groundwater in Texas in August... whatya gonna do?). I didn't want to pitch my yeast at >80F, so I decided to seal it up and leave it overnight to cool to room temperature. This morning, I decided to use the pump that came with the Anvil to pump the wort …

I am very new to home brewing. I have finished making my first batch of DME beer. Although during bottle conditioning I could see enough CO2 bubbles getting generated, upon opening the bottles after about a week, it didn't generate the foamy head. However, if I agitate the bottle, I manage to get some foam. If I refridgerate the bottles after conditioning, the beer becomes completely flat. Am I doing anything wrong? How can I ensure a decent foamy head …

I just made a yeast starter for my upcoming brew and I realize the bag I was using for DME was pushing a year old and hasn't been through prime storing conditions. It got mixed in with my other stuff somehow and I realize I used it. The DME seems fine, no visible problems or anything. It also smelled fine when boiling the starter. I was wondering if there is any concern with using this yeast starter I just made? …

I want to make a batch of Cincinnati Pale Ale with the recipe describes in the How to brew of John Palmer book. To do it, I need Pale Ale DME. The problem is my homebrew shop only indicates the EBC value of the malt extract and not directly the type of beer. According to this website, an American Pale Ale have an EBC between 10 and 25. Does it mean I should take a DME with an EBC between …

I brewed 5 gallons of a DME-based hefe. Simplest recipe I've ever found. Three pounds Bavarian wheat DME, three pounds light pilsen DME. Let it ferment for a week...no action in the bubbler for a couple days. Primed it with simple syrup made of 3/4 cup white sugar boiled into a cup of water and bottled. That was two weeks ago. Two DAYS ago, I opened one for a taste and it was delicious. Tonight I went to open one …

The simple/short version of the question: What does a hydrometer gravity reading of 1.036 really mean? Does it mean the density of the liquid is 3.6% greater than that of distilled water (ignoring inaccuracies and errors in measurement)? The context/long version of the question: When creating a yeast starter, it is commonly advised to create a light wort in the range of 1.030 to 1.040 gravity by using 100g of dry malt extract (DME) per liter of water in the …

I fully acknowledge that the internet is a place of truly limitless (and often incorrect/misinformed) information, yet here I am asking this question on an internet forum. I'm planning on bottling a fig gose I made a few weeks back, and recently had a question with a professional brewer/firkin specialist about priming. He stated that he NEVER uses corn sugar for priming, as it gives beer 'that homebrewed' character. Has anyone done a side-by-side on fermented beer? I have several …

I'd also like to add Dark Egyptian Cane Sugar (to a porter), and Honey (to a nut-brown ale). Amounts of these? Add during boil? Goal is 5 - 7% alcohol content. Thanks!

I'm brand new to brewing and am trying to make sense of the instructions from my extract kit (Brewer's Best Amber Ale). During the instructions for the boil, they say that it's important to make sure that the LME/DME extract doesn't accumulate and caramelize on the bottom of my brewpot (stainless steel stock pot). My question is: How do I accomplish this? What tricks/techniques/etc. exist to make sure that the extract doesn't bind up, fall to the bottom of the …

I ended up with about a pound of CBW Sparkling Amber DME leftover. I figured it might be worth keeping around so I put it in a plastic bag and tried to get as much air out as a could. Since then I've left it in a box in at roughly room temperature (probably a little lower). I'm considering adding some or all of it to an upcoming batch but hesitated when I saw that the Briess product information sheet …

I've just started a single can Geordie Winter Warmer kit and having read some negative reviews about this kit turning out "weak" and "watery" and like "beer flavoured soda water" I'm naturally having doubts about it. ** Steps taken so far ** Can of Geordie Winter Warmer 1kg dextrose (wish I'd used dme) 300g black treacle (I've read this can improve the body of a brew)* 100g honey* 100g muscovado sugar* 1tbsp ground cinnamon 1tsp ground ginger (*=whatever sugary stuff …

I was thinking of making this recipe but my homebrew store doesn't have any Northwestern Gold LME. Would any old light malt extract be an okay replacement? A full list of (liquid) malt extracts I can buy is here. Cheers

I have a few questions about dme. I want to make a light wheat beer but the wheat lme at my shop is dark. So I have 3.3 lbs of a light beer lme and 1 lb of Bavarian wheat dme. I was planning on making the wort with a combination of the two but don't know how much of each I should use. I only have a 3 gallon carboy. Also can I use the dme instead of sugar …

I typically use LME for my wort, with no prblems, but this time I am trying a slightly bigger beer and want to add DME to boost the OG. The one time I tried adding DME to my wort, I just dumped it into the boil pot 2 minutes before knockoff, and it clumped so badly that I spent 20 minutes (without flame) breaking everything up so it could dissolve. Threw off my timing, but everything was okay in the …

I have a package of Briess Golden Light DME, and I noticed on the back it had a date stamp of 130923 10:57, which I assume to mean it was produced on Sept. 23, 2013. It got me wondering if DME actually had a shelf life. How long will a sealed package of DME remain useful as a brewing ingredient?

I'm a bit new to extract brewing and am a bit confused about the following recipe. Red Hawk Ale It says it requires: 6 lbs. amber malt extract Does this refer to 6 lbs. of amber spray-malt, amber liquid malt extract or either? Thanks!

Today I did my first yeast starter. I purchased the 2000mL flask and DME from northernbrewer, and it came with instructions for doing both 1000mL and 2000mL batches. It suggests 1000mL for 5 gallons of wort with OG of up to 1.080. For 1000mL, it says to put in 650mL of water and 1/2 cup DME. For 2000mL, it says to put in 1300mL of water and 1 cup of DME. So I meant to do a 1000mL starter but …

My family was very nice to me this Christmas and I got a bayou classic burner and an 32qt. pot with 2 ports and a bazooka screen as well as an immersion chiller. I had built a 10 gallon mash tun over the summer (I was doing partial mashes for the last couple batches) so now I am ready for all grain full boil 5 gallon batches. Only thing is I have never done this before (can't wait though) so …

Very new brewer here, and I recently tried a generic IPA recipe doled out by my LHBS, and it ended up very sweet with little bitterness or hop aroma. The recipe is here: http://homebrewmart.com/recipes_beer.php#AmericanIPA I followed it mostly to the letter, and ended up with about a 7ish% abv beer that tastes more like a belgian tripel than it does any IPA i've grown accustomed to. Does anyone see anything weird about that recipe, or must it have been something …

I'm about to make 5 gallons of a rather light lager. The recipe calls for 6.5 lbs DME (munton's extra light), but I could only order two 3 lb bags and a 1 lb bag. Would it be a disaster to toss that extra half pound of DME in the boil, or would it probably work out alright? What would the main effects be - darker, higher OG, sweeter?