I plan on ussing a bag/balloon filled with CO2 attached to the fermenter when cold crashing. I want to calculate how big this bag needs to be. Assumptions: Fermenter Volume: 30l (23l beer) Room Temp: 20° Celsius Beer Temp before Cold Crash: 20° Celsius Beer Temp after Cold Crash: 3° Celsius How can I calculate the volume CO2 that is sucked into the fermenter? My approach was to look at the Density of CO2 at the different temperatures: 1.815 g/l …
I am brewing a Hoegardden clone. I cold crashed for a couple of days and now on the bottling day I am down with fever. So, can I keep it at 2°C for few more days until I get well? Should I increase the temperature?
I have brewed a number of ales which have all turned out delicious, and recently I attempted my first Pilsner (92% Pilsner malt, 8% flaked wheat) which did not turn out how I expected. There is a prominent off-flavor, it tastes mostly like butter scotch but I can't quite put my finger on it. After the boil I chilled to room temperature and pitched Wyeast Bohemian Lager at room temperature then brought my fermentation chamber down to 55°F. Fermentation Timeline …
So, i've done a few brews before (brew in a bag) but this is my first since getting a fridge and a corny keg. My beer has finished fermenting, and I've transferred it (minus the bottom gallon or so with all the crap) into a corny keg and put the keg in the fridge (at about 2.2C/36F) to cold crash it. (the main reason I did this is because the corny keg is the only thing that will fit in …
How long should I cold crash a mead for? Is it possible to get haze in the mead from being cold crashed too long? The yeast is 71B, and it is one gallon. I had to take the airlock off to put it in the refrigerator, but I covered it in plastic wrap. I do not believe that it will oxidize while in the fridge. Will it be clear in about a week?
My wild fermented cider from freshly pressed apples has been on the carboy for almost one and a half months now. Cider is cloudy and there's still some very, VERY occasional airlock activity (once or twice a day?). I assume by now most fermentation has stopped. I've been trying the brew, and it's great. I like the taste it has now and don't think letting it ferment for longer will make a big difference. I would like my cider to …
In this question defining cold crashing, there is some discussion of ramping the temperature down slowly over a long time, but then says quicker cold crashing is possible if the beer has already completed fermentation. In this question, I'd like to explore an appropriate, quick, and effective cold crash technique on an ale that's had plenty of time to ferment and "clean-up". And for this example, the purpose of cold crashing is primarily for settling. Given the carboy is in …
I have very nearly mastered the clarification process but still wish to control the timing of flocculation more consistently. At what point/stage is cold crashing most efficient?
So I just fermented a 80 Shilling and thought I would try cold crashing for the first time. I dropped it from mid 60's to 38 or so in a 24 hour period and it sucked about 4 cups of sanitizer up the blow off tube and into my 5 gallon batch. The sanitizer was the usual dilution to half ounce per 5 gallons. couple questions: Is the beer safe to drink? Can I re-pitch the yeast into another batch …
According to "How to Brew" by John Palmer (4th ed.), cold conditioning (a.k.a. lagering) is the act of cooling beer after fermentation has completed (including maturation) in order to clarify the beer. So far so good. The book also suggests to slowly decrease the temperature (down to 1 °C/day!) to avoid thermal shock on the yeast: The point of slow cooling is to prevent thermal shock of the yeast and subsequent excretion of fatty acids and other lipids. These lipids …
I'm trying to make a Kristallweizen. I'd like to get most of the flavor of the hefe weizen been with no yeast and, but don't have access to filtering right now. What would be the best method(s) to force flocculation of hefe weizen yeast? I'm thinking about adding another high flocculating yeast in secondary and see if that helps bring the hefe yeast down, combined with a few days in cold crash. Any suggestions?
I'm trying to understand the mechanism behind cold crashing. When cold crashing, you cool the fermented brew, yeast and suspended solids settle. With my first cider, a very turbid bottle visible cleared in a day or two. Why do solids settle whan cooling? Generally, sedimentation happens continously and is faster at low viscosities of the suspending liquid. Cooler water is actually more viscous so you'd expect slower sedimentation. Another purely physical explanation would be that with colder temeperatures there's less …
So I cold crashed and force carbed a saison recently, but after trying a glass I realized that it might be a little young and too funky. I took the keg out of the fridge and let it warm to room temperature. Will the yeast in the keg still be viable and able to clean up their mess a little? For reference I used White labs WLP590, french saison yeast. Also is there any issue with warming the beer so …
Does cold crashing kombucha work in terms of removing yeast and creating a brighter product? I am using a continuous brew process where I decant from the primary fermenter in to a secondary fermenter where I add fresh ingredients to infuse flavor. After removing the ingredients I was wondering if I could use a glycol chiller to drop the yeast similar to what I'm reading about beer. I'm not a huge fan of cloudy kombucha with a pile of sediment …
I brewed a DDH NEIPA recently and it was a great learning experience. I got the aromatics I was looking for but the flavor was bitter. The batch was bound to be wonky because of size limitations because I could only brew a 3-gallon batch on a stovetop. The final beer was SUPER cloudy and had some sediment in it and when bottling a lot ended up settling out of the beer. Primary fermentation was at 72°F then down to …
I've seen cold crashing presented as a means of clearing beer by knocking much of the yeast out of suspension. But it seems to be a technique that's used by brewers who keg. Is there still enough yeast in suspension after cold crashing to carb beer in bottles? My thought was to bring the bottles back to room temp and then give them whatever time they need. Context: I don't care at all about clarity. To me, murky beer just …
I'm brewing a Belgian golden strong ale for the first time. According to the fermentation schedule, it should cold crash and lager at 32°F (0°C) for three weeks. Even though I've cold crashed before, my technique has been to momentarily replace the airlock with sanitized foil. Keeping the airlock while cooling will suck water into the tank. A similar approach is mentioned in Lager Diacetyl Rest and Lagering Without Air Escape. Is there a better way to do this using …
I don't have the facilities to properly cold crash but my attic at this time of year is pretty cold - about 8-10°C (50°F). Would there be any benefit to leaving my beer there, maybe for an extended period, longer than a typical cold crash, or does it have to be really cold to work regardless of time.
My fridge holds a damn near constant and consistent temp at whatever i set it at. I am thinking about cold crashing my double IPA and this would be my first time trying this technique. I heard there are things that can go wrong. What temp and how many days and how long before bottling should i cold crash if I also dry hopped the beer. What can go wrong, and what are the benefits? thanks i know i have …