I have read here and there that it is ok to pitch your yeast at a high temperature, say 83°F? Seeing as it will take a considerably long time for the temperature to drop to an ambient 68°F then what about the esters or off flavours which may occur during the cooling down time ? Will there be any if using Safale 04?

For mashing, I have kettle and steel grain basket. Heat is provided via a gas stove. I heat the water to a few degrees above mash-in temperature and then ease in the grain basket. When I measure temperature of my mash I find there is temperature variance between the bottom, middle and the top of the grain basket. It varies by a good five to six degrees between the top and bottom of the basket Now, if I have to …

The standard instructions are: Make your bug; brew your sweet ginger 'tea'; cool; add bug to your tea, and bottle for second fermentation; let ferment, at room temperature, to your desired level, making sure to burp every day; refrigerate--drastically slowing, but not eliminating second fermentation. The minor detail that I'm interested in, is that I've been burping them daily, and usually 3-5 days after I start getting audible gas, I burp them one last time, so that they don't burst, …

I'm a newbie brewer currently trying his luck with an irish red ale kit. I've followed the instructions (which weren't complicated since it's a kit), and I've let it brew for about 6 days now (instructions claim 4–6 days to completion in 18–20°C). First question: The inctructions say the ale should read constantly below 1.014° when it's done, but I measured it to a bit above 1.017° both yesterday and today. I checked the temperature today, and it was 17°C. …

Summer is here and it isn’t quite the end of the world, yet. So, I’d figure I might pick up brewing again. I’m looking for yeast suggestions for a low (neutral) phenolic profile at high temperatures. But also stay clear of Saison all together this time around. I’ve read this post and also found one potential candidate Safale K-97 and discarded a one on passed attempts. Namely US-05. In terms of style I’m looking for something that could work with …

I am currently fermenting an IPA at room temperature in a Fermentasaurus. It has built up a nice bit of pressure which is carbonating my beer, GREAT! Nature: awesome. Now I've been looking at better ways of bottling my beer. Normally I would add priming sugar and bottle condition it. However, I already have perfectly carbonated beer now, what a waste to start over! Kegging is not within my budget at the moment, so that's out of the question for …

I have a problem my house is getting super hot during the summer, cannot find cool place to store my beer. I made a little insulated chamber but I seem not working at all. Recently I brewed an ale and fermentation temperature was in the normal range 18-20°C. Just worry if such high bottle conditioning temperature will affect the flavor? Please share your thoughts. Thank you.

I have never done an all-grain recipe, was thinking about trying one. My question is does the Mash replace the DME? Also, I would think that the rest of the process of the brewing, would be the same.

I'm brewing two batches of grain mash, since im using a small pot. Anyways, half is cooling outside right now, the other half is on the stove, I plan to combine the two afterwards then get it to 70°F to add the yeast. How cold can the half outside get? It's -30°F (-34°C) outside (no yeast is added yet).

This seems like an ideal place to ask a question that has been keeping me confused for a little while now. But I apologize if I've posted in the wrong area. My question is that I don't seem to understand the temperature trend that I am seeing from my temperature sensors. I'll start of with my setup: Essentially, I have a metal box with two temperature sensors. 1) Is mounted right at the base of the box [Temp Sensor #1] …

I was thinking about getting a Brewjacket to control my fermentation temps. Anyone use one? I'm wondering if the $400 pricetag is worth it. Seems like it is.

I'm living in Singapore where the ambient temperature fluctuates between 28 and 33 C most days. In the back of my apartment where I keep my fermentor, the temperature should be pretty stable around 30. I've tried brewing a couple of beers using ice packs to maintain a temperature around 20 degrees. For my next batch, I would like to try something that works naturally in these temperatures, rather than fighting my environment. I understand saisons and farmhouse ales are …

sorry if this is a question that’s been answered already. I’ve just completed a brew for a Belgian saison using wyeast 3724 and I’ve suffered the all to common stall that this yeast so often experiences. As the ambient temp in my home is circa 19c, I decided to try and kickstart the yeast back into action by raising the temp (this yeast is happier in the late 20s and up to 32 according to wyeast site). So I invested …

Left it for two weeks at 2.3 bar (35 PSI) and 17 C (59 F). Poured a 2 liter bottle, it made beer-like pleasant foams upon pouring but it had almost no sparkles to the taste bud. Should I let it sit for more or search for leaks again (already searched twice with both soap cream and the set-pressure-and-see-if-it-drops-after-some-days methods) ? EDIT @Simon I should note that even a 10 ml (this is no more than a Tequila shot) pour …

I'm going to be tackling this recipe for my first attempt at a kettle sour. In the notes, it goes over procedures to make a starter. Researching I've come across sources that say you should have a heating pad under your beaker on the stir plate. I have neither currently and I was wondering if I could get away with not doing one. This question suggests heating the mixture to temp and then just wrapping it. Would that be effective?

I recently brewed a second batch of Christmas ale, which was spiced with cinnamon, ginger, clove and nutmeg. I put a bottle in the fridge last night and tried it, but only a small amount of spice came through in smell/taste. Then I decided to open a bottle that hadn't been chilled, and the spice character was much more present, especially the cinnamon and clove. Why does chilling reduce the perceptibility of the spice? It is something chemically related to …

This is probably a newbie minor detail but this matter is bothering me! When the wort is boiling, due to natural convection, the tun should have a pretty homogeneous temperature. No problem here! But while Mashing, where should I take my readings? Should it be near the bottom of the tun, so I have the maximum temperature and don't over cook my wort? Should it be on the top? Middle?

i have just had some cider fail in a co2 bulb pressurised keg. All the pressure has gone. I don't have a lot of luck with cider. The last beer brew in same equipment late September went fine but it was warmer then. After secondary ferm I put it in the garage to keep it away from children and my own temptation. Its 5 oC here at night (UK midlands), has the low temperature likely caused a problem ? I'd …

My primary fermentation and bottle conditioning temperatures are well controlled in a brewing fridge. Once bottles are conditioned / carbonation cycle complete I move them to crates which I store in my garage. The temperature here can vary from 15C / 58F to 30C / 86F in one day. The beer at least has some buffer and does in itself not reach these temperatures, but it will fluctuate. Will these ‘storage’ temperatures adversely affect my beer?

Due to some CO2 cylinder carbonation problems I have resorted to the desperate method of pouring sugar into the keg. Which is probably bad, as I have found out here all I needed was lower temperatures and appropriate tubing. Fortunately, my sugarized keg did not start fermenting due to the lowish temperatures in the room it is deposited in. I should mention that there was some carbonation in the keg when I have poured the sugar (I got a geyser …