Cheers! I know there are a few good ones out there but I'm not sure if temperature is going to play a weighted part here. I'm from India and the temperature at the place i live in ranges between 25C and 32C. What would be the right recipe in terms of grain bill (for OG 1.050), hops and especially the yeast?
I used white labs abbey ale yeast - fermentation went well and flocculated quite a bit. I then bottled straight from primary. I noticed that not a lot of yeast went into the bottles which hasn't really happened before (usually there's a visible layer or sediment. Also doesn't help that it's quiet dark brown in a brown bottle. Anyway, the bottles have been sitting for about 10 days now, so I cracked one open to see how carbonation was going …
I had a Belgian Dubbel in primary about two weeks, ending up with a gravity of 1.016. Then 3 days ago I racked onto 5.5 lbs of cherries, leaving the yeast cake behind. I expected the residual yeast to cause additional fermentation and generate CO2, along with bubbling through airlock. I measured the gravity at 1.014, but that seems within the margin of error. This is my first fruit beer: is this progressing as it should, or should I add …
I've been reading about making some Belgian Candi Sugar for a Piraat (Belgian Tripel) recipe I want to make and finding some inconsistencies about the techniques. People talk about using citric acid and this is backed up in this Inverted_sugar_syrup article and says cream of tartar is fine as well. I found mention that if you want clear BCS then just drop table sugar in the boil kettle and that heat will do the conversion... BUT the lowest temperature I've …
I’ve been reading about common mistakes with Belgian beers and it’s been noted that a “real” Belgian beer requires a step mash. The reason given for this is that apparently this is required for good head formation and retention. The article also mentions that this will only work with under modified malts and not your typical well modified pilsner. Given that malting effectively does the same job as a protein rest step (gets the enzymes churning away) what is the …
I'm brewing a Belgian golden strong ale for the first time. According to the fermentation schedule, it should cold crash and lager at 32°F (0°C) for three weeks. Even though I've cold crashed before, my technique has been to momentarily replace the airlock with sanitized foil. Keeping the airlock while cooling will suck water into the tank. A similar approach is mentioned in Lager Diacetyl Rest and Lagering Without Air Escape. Is there a better way to do this using …
I'm pretty new to home brewing. I made a 1 gallon Belgian Ale kit which came out pretty good and then did a 5-gallon Strong Belgian Ale recipe I found on the internet which also came out pretty well. There were a few funny flavors in it but overall it was pretty decent considering my lack of experience. So I'm trying to make that same beer again but there were some mistakes made. I also need to verify some information …
So it happened again. The beer blew out the airlock leaving a water and beer mix behind. The airlock still bubbles as per usual. Now I'm wondering what I should do next. Leave it as is Replace the airlock with another sanitized airlock and sterile water Just replace the water in the airlock Replace the airlock with a blow out tube Any of these the options make as much sense as the next one. I might have over-pitched with a …
I was trying my first all grain brew yesterday when I realized that the beer was almost flat, which is weird because they spent about a week inside the bottle. It's a belgian golden ale and I've added about 10ml of a primming solution of 80g of sugar diluted in about 450ml of water (used an online calculator) for 33 cl bottles. What exactly has gone wrong? Was the yeast already dead at bottling or there wasn't enough sugar?
I'm looking to pair Nelson Sauvin hops with some yeast. The hop variety is reminiscent of white wine, grapes and gooseberry. I'd love to go with a dry flavour profile, like a Belgium strong ale yeast, or something that tastes similar to French or Belgian cider. My previous attempts at picking such a yeast have failed completely. Also it needs to ferment at 66-70°F (19-21°C). 60% attenuation or higher is fine. Ability flocculate doesn't really matter.
I'm looking to brew a Belgium Tripel but using all American ingredients, specifically from the Southwestern United States. Would Agave Nectar impart a different flavor than using a Belgium Candi Syrup?
It seems like the only reason to add plain sugar is to boost ABV without changing flavor. If I want a lighter beer, can I just leave out the sugar? Or will that affect the flavor? I'm not talking about dark candi syrups or raw sugar like turbinado. I know they contribute unique flavors. Thanks!
I'm brewing a Duvel Belgian golden strong. Chilled my wort to 64°F and pitched my yeast. My plan was to raise the temperature 3 degrees a day to 82°F. Today (day 2) ambient temperature rose into the 80s, and my fermentation rose to 76°F. I've moved to a cooler location, and temperature is stabilizing. Did I ruin my brew by raising the temperature too quickly?
Have made a couple of beers with Belle Saison yeast and have seen a couple of posts about this and other belgian yeast producing funky flavor. After having tasted my own beer I have to agree, there is differently a flavor that I can not define as anything else than funk. I'm not yet certain if I dislike it or actualy like it but I do lik that the beer gets dryer. In any case two questions: Does anybody know …
I'm brewing a cross between Belgian Dark Strong and Barleywine. Currently it is it's third day. Starting gravity was ~26 Brix (~1.11 Specific Gravity). I want to push it up with candi sugar, muscovado, dry demerara sugar and caramel. I'll need almost 2kg of these for the effect I want (30 Brix). Now, I want my yeast to ferment most malt sugars before I'll add simpler ones. There are sources suggesting that yeast may lose ability to ferment maltose if …
I am planning on brewing a quad with my dad here pretty soon but I would like to make something that wouldn't take too long as we haven't brewed in a while and I'm not wanting to wait too long until I can drink it. I've read some recipes call for the brew to be aged for a few months before cracking open a bottle. Is this required for the beer to be fermented properly? I ask because pasts beers …
I was planning on making 35L of 1.070 ish OG dubbel on Friday. I don't have any yeast to hand and was wondering whether the smack packs of http://www.brewuk.co.uk/wyeast-activator-3787-trappist.html would be appropriate at, if so, what pitch rate would be best? I use brewtoad for recipes and it's suggesting >300 bn cells are needed, which would make this pretty pricey yeast order. Better to leave for another time and make a starter, or would under-pitching this be OK?
Some beers claim to be triple fermented, meaning that after primary fermentation, more fermentables are added at the start of secondary, and then the brew is bottle-conditioned, resulting in three separate additions of sugars. I've read somewhere that yeast is added for secondary. How much is added during secondary? Is it a major fermentable addition, or just one or two gravity points' worth, like what is added for bottle conditioning? Is yeast repitched as well? If the second addition is …
I'd like to know a couple of things: Did you make dark or light? What procedure did you use/recommend? Did you try to make rocks or did you just make sheet candy and break it up? Did you use cane sugar or beet sugar? (although there shouldn't be a difference, sucrose is sucrose) What was your brewing experience with it? If any of you could answer all or some of these questions I would be grateful. We've made clear sheet …